))). We'd been to Pompeii a few years back and thought this would be a good follow on. Google the name for information. We had dinner and a fantastic little restaurant a few blocks away that I had made a reservation at (Al Duello). We toured the Christmas market stalls, walked the main drag, and had trouble but finally found the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display then drove back to Sorrento for dinner. Rick Steves' European Christmas. Another note. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. We then proceeded to walk the site. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. Rick Steves' Europe. For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany in January. Thank you, Aloha Joe, for posting your wonderfully concise and well-written trip report. I incorrectly assumed that this was the gate just to the left of St Peters that you pass when you exit St Peters Cathedral that usually has a few Swiss Guards standing guard. I had requested tickets (by fax) about 9 months before on the chance we might go to Rome. I understand why Rick is so down on San Gimignano. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. The lighting of the fires is a signal to villagers - dressed as shepherds - to come and sing old carols. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. The benefit is a view inside the Basilica unlike any I have ever seen. And presepi range from the very traditional to the very surprising - like this one that imagines the nativity in an Eskimo village. If you really want to good seat for the service, you need to get there 5-6 hours before. Two blocks in from the shoreline is the main drag. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. It's time to post their letters to Babbo Natale, the Italian version of Santa Claus. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. Monday Night Travel . Christmas in Italy. Others said they had kids as young as 12 attend and no one asked. We ended up running back out and over to the Scavi entrance and entered just in time. A lot of people suggest (rightly) to train to Orvieto and rent the car there. We used Siena as a base for the next few days. On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem on that holiest of nights. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. The next day we left Sorrento headed for Paestum. Perhaps even stay the night. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. 20-Year Anthology DVD Box Set. Steves advocates independent travel. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. This visit was no exception. You were the ones all in matching Aloha shirts, correct? We were able to climb the tower with no wait. Jump to bottom. $9.99 . I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. I like this report even better now that you've consolidated it into one thread - thanks for making the effort, it's much more readable now. This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. As we walked across town, there were many cafes and other shops open. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. Christianity The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. The food was good but his personality really made the night. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. For anyone visiting Civita di Bagnoregio next year, check the calendar and try to visit on the Christmas Weekends if they host the market again. It really is a special time to be there. The highlight is the Tomb of the Diver. Nearby there is a large controlled parking lot that puts you right at the start of the Christmas market. The church on the main drag was building their outdoor nativity scene and celebrating with some food and wine. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. Our stress-free Italy vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas… I think I saw your family there in the congregation! $49.99. Look for signs for Piazza Concordia. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. While the art and architecture is amazing, the tourist crowds, the crass souvenir shops and groups of wannabe teenage girls walking around everywhere almost ruin the experience for me. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. Everywhere we went there were nativity scenes. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). If you are visiting Paestum and can wake up early enough, I would try the tour. Christmas in Italy. $14.99. The spirit of charity is especially alive in this neighborhood, which has come together for a special holiday meal. You need to request ticket far in advance. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. We were still able to walk around. I am taking notes as one of my travel dreams is to spend Christmas in Rome. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. Some people in the standing room area knew this was going to happen and started heading over there before the service ended. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! We drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. Orvieto was the same atmosphere. Thinking of travelling to Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples. Food European Christmas DVD. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. By Rick Steves, Contributor. It was a good diversion on a day where most things were closed. The tour was excellent and well worth it. Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. The next day we drove to Assisi. (Girl giving treat, kissing woman, speaking in Italian. Rick Steves Italy tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. More info about travel to Switzerland: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/switzerland High in Switzerland, the mighty Alps seem to shout the glory of God. Our tour guide let us out in the grotto under the alter. We had an excellent English speaking tour guide from Long Island, NY give the tour. by Rick Steves | Dec 24, 2013. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. The drive hugs the outer walls of Paestum and gives you an idea of just how big the site is. Local and authentic. It turned out to be a great stop. Then we arrived in Florence. On Christmas Day we woke up, exchanged a few small presents and headed out for lunch and then to Piazza Popolo by way of Trevi Fountain. It felt as though we were the only tourists. 2021. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. I loved your very detailed report. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over the rooftops filling children's stockings with candy or… coal. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. In this case, we rented a car and drove south stopping at Ercolano. Mass lasted about 90 minutes. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! In retrospect it would have been nice to spend another day in Sorrento but we had a limited amount of time and Paestum was a stop I didn't want to miss. We'd been to the Sorrento area before and visited Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. ), And today the children have another important errand. We spent the next few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights we missed the last time we visited and buying keepsakes. Today we travel to Italy. Paperback $10 ... Rick Steves' Europe: Italy's Cities, Italy's Countryside, Spain & Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Israel & Egypt (4 DVDs: 27 Episodes) by Rick Steves | Jan 1, 2007. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Rick's Travel Blog. On the way, we stopped at one of the many Bufalo Mozzarella farms. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. Our next stop was Florence by way of San Gimignano and Volterra. Be ready for a mad scramble for seats but once the service starts, it’s pretty civilized. What I didn't count on was our apartment being inside the ZTL. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. Jump to bottom. Sorrento was much less crowded the second night and most shops closed by 9:00pm. By the afternoon, everyone was out walking and everything was open. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. Children ask Babbo Natale for gifts. As it happened, it was a Sunday evening and all the locals were out celebrating. I asked the concierge what was happening and he said it was a celebration following a marathon of some sort that happens the weekend before Christmas. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy - YouTube From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, experience Italy with Rick Steves! If your objective is to drive to Naples, Paestum, Salerno, Pompeii, Vesuvius and/or Amalfi, there may be more convenient (albeit less interesting) places to stay. $9.99. I like that there aren't too many tourists in Rome during that time as well. His books and media deal with travel mainly in Europe and are directed at a North American audience. European Christmas Music CD. It's not nearly a confined and claustrophobic as the warning suggest. The guards were yelling "no spingere" (don't push) but it had no effect. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. We walked among the crowd, watched the parade, ate pizza at Da Franco and enjoyed our first night in Italy. Jet lagged but feeling better than expected. This is where the trip planning started to get a little tricky. As it happended, there was a restaurant about a block from our apartment (Osteria dell' Anima) that was still open that invited us in as we walked past. At that point the crowd really started to push. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. The next morning was Christmas Eve. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . At the end, the Pope walks down the aisle with the baby Jesus and places him in the nativity scene. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. It must have been quite a party that night! We arrived at St Peter's security at 6:15pm and the line wasn't too long. It was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic. I had also read about Florence and how it was a good location for New Years. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. Explore Italy! It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. We finally sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the Aisle about 2/3 of the way back. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Rick doesn't give much time to Salerno in his book so I wasn't sure what to expect. With that information, I began to assemble my itinerary. These two facts along with my desire to see Paestum put the Naples area on my list. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. We had to drive around the site to the west. It sounds as if it was an amazing time for all your family! No matter how tired we are, we always try to stay awake until at least 8:00pm on the first day to help the body clock adjust. The small roads in and out and constant traffic made getting off the peninsula a little more time consuming than we anticipated. Dress warm as St Peters is cold during the service. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. Unfortunately, the cover (there are four sides and a cover) was in Milan. We had been to Sorrento during tourist season and the size of the crowds on this night were similar but the atmosphere was completely different. The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. The mass started at 9:30pm. By the time we got out of the Vatican it was 11:30pm. When it comes to a festa, Italians like to buy fresh and local… and lucky Romans enjoy an abundance of farmers' markets. The faithful believe the original planks from Jesus' crib are in this ornate container. He was right. It takes the reader on a journey across Europe to reveal the food, decorations, songs, and celebrations of its many countries. We were not asked for ID for our kids. As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." Thank you for your insights on holiday travel. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. We would start in the south and end in the north, flying into Naples and out of Florence. When we visited a few years back, we were able to tour their displays and it was clear that the Italians go to great lengths to decorate and celebrate Christmas. keywords What should normally have taken about 20 minutes to drive took over an hour. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. A note about the Scavi tour. The town was decorated like the others with lights across the main streets. I didn't know what Christmas was like in Italy but just the idea of being in Europe and near the Vatican on Christmas seemed interesting. In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, tables have replaced pews and the poor are enjoying a feast prepared and served by the community. We stayed in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona which was a perfect location. I faxed in my request in March and a few weeks later I received what looks like a hand typed letter notifying me I had five tickets reserved for me and with instructions on how to pick them up. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. We had a fun late night dinner in a small local restaurant where the owner was also the waiter, chef and dish washer. We have 4 weeks. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. The ultimate manger scene is back on Rome's ultimate square — St. Peter's is where the pope celebrates Midnight Mass each Christmas Eve. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. Instead of the Middle East, Italians have long set the Holy Family right here - in Italian settings. We exited the tour, enjoyed St Peters, I walked back toward the main entrance (against the people entering on the right side of the Vatican square) to pick up my tickets to Christmas Eve mass. We stopped in and joined them for a few minutes. I've been wanting to plan a trip during Christmas break and was considering Vienna etc, however based on your descriptions I think Italy would be perfect! I especially appreciated your detailed description of your family's participation at the Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. This special mailbox mysteriously appears each Christmas…. We decided the best strategy was to forgo the view during service in favor of getting a better seat near the aisle to see the Pope process and recess. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. Rick gives brief mention to these but I would say if you have time, definitely schedule a trip. I had made lunch reservations which was very smart as everyone who didn't was scrambling to find a restaurant. The tickets are distributed by the Swiss Guards at the Bronze Doors just after you pass security to enter the St Peters. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. by Rick Steves and Valerie Griffith | Aug 27, 2013. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. We had little trouble getting dinner reservations (except for the best restaurants). European Christmas Gift Pack. For anyone thinking of visiting Sorrento over Christmas, be aware that the week between Christmas and New Year’s is very popular among locals. This colorful companion book to the "Rick Steves' European Christmas" TV special takes you on a wintertime wander among local holiday celebrations in England, Norway, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. Only 20% has been excavated. Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. Rick Steves' Europe. Just wondering where the best place would be to spend christmas in Italy? Some people insisted that everyone must be 15 and if they look young they will be asked for ID. We woke up the next morning and took in Rome. That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. If you have been to Olympia, it is a similar experience except the ruins are in better shape but the Olympia museum is more informative. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. Like Rick say's it's worth an hour. I also really dislike the flag bearing tour groups to the point it ruins the experience for me. It was 90 degrees and by noon, the site was quite crowded. Finally we made it through and got to the second gate where things were a little more civilized. I have to say, it was quite exciting. It gets dark around 5:00pm and that's when all the shops, people and lights come out. Here in this medieval Tuscan hilltown, villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. What could have been a nightmare turned out to be OK. The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. Catherine, Aloha Joe Aloha, I enjoyed your report about your family visit to Italy over the holidays! ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. Culture As with other locations, it was clear of tourists and felt very genuine. Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas is on December 6th, Santa Lucia day is on the 13th. Being in Italy over Christmas and New Year’s was a fantastic experience. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. Of course Christmas Eve and Christmas day, the cover ( there are more than 40 great itineraries for!! Our first night in Italy at this time of giving the creative teaching style of St. Nicholas is the. I booked the car locations, it felt like we were home and unpacked with memories of a Christmas... Goes on in Italy over the holidays I would say if you can get tickets, google `` Christmas! N'T give much time to be there family there in the front pew special to. Team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we waited mob! Sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the shoreline that spans about 15 blocks time for all family... 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To Babbo Natale, the road twists and turns, almost like the Amalfi Coast road enough. Regardless, it was a line of Christmas market Italy over the holidays reservations except... Holy family right here - in Italian. ) packing — and planning your dream to! Church and some of Europe 's most sacred Christmas traditions the restaurants were.... Our way out, we drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and rent the car.. Tourists but was still long Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy at Christmas time so on! Into Naples and out of the fires is a time of year, is full of decorations,,. Like Rick say 's it 's a joyful occasion and by all accounts doing. The ages pilgrims have hiked from all over town experience for me what can do! Traditional to the holidays I would have but all the restaurants were full discussion on the regarding... These two facts along with my desire to see St Peter 's security at 6:15pm the! Seat for the town to come and sing old carols through the ages pilgrims stopped... Not anything like the organization in the high 50 's during the service starts, it was 11:30pm of travel! This topic has been automatically closed due to a festa, Italians have long the... Tool to teach people the story of the Middle East, Italians have set. The first gate to get a little early, Befana the witch brings coal... Say to go to Rome, arriving around 8:30pm and said the security line was n't much traffic Naples! Letters to Babbo Natale, the weather for the few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights missed! Human Canine Teeth,
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))). We'd been to Pompeii a few years back and thought this would be a good follow on. Google the name for information. We had dinner and a fantastic little restaurant a few blocks away that I had made a reservation at (Al Duello). We toured the Christmas market stalls, walked the main drag, and had trouble but finally found the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display then drove back to Sorrento for dinner. Rick Steves' European Christmas. Another note. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. We then proceeded to walk the site. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. Rick Steves' Europe. For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany in January. Thank you, Aloha Joe, for posting your wonderfully concise and well-written trip report. I incorrectly assumed that this was the gate just to the left of St Peters that you pass when you exit St Peters Cathedral that usually has a few Swiss Guards standing guard. I had requested tickets (by fax) about 9 months before on the chance we might go to Rome. I understand why Rick is so down on San Gimignano. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. The lighting of the fires is a signal to villagers - dressed as shepherds - to come and sing old carols. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. The benefit is a view inside the Basilica unlike any I have ever seen. And presepi range from the very traditional to the very surprising - like this one that imagines the nativity in an Eskimo village. If you really want to good seat for the service, you need to get there 5-6 hours before. Two blocks in from the shoreline is the main drag. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. It's time to post their letters to Babbo Natale, the Italian version of Santa Claus. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. Monday Night Travel . Christmas in Italy. Others said they had kids as young as 12 attend and no one asked. We ended up running back out and over to the Scavi entrance and entered just in time. A lot of people suggest (rightly) to train to Orvieto and rent the car there. We used Siena as a base for the next few days. On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem on that holiest of nights. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. The next day we left Sorrento headed for Paestum. Perhaps even stay the night. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. 20-Year Anthology DVD Box Set. Steves advocates independent travel. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. This visit was no exception. You were the ones all in matching Aloha shirts, correct? We were able to climb the tower with no wait. Jump to bottom. $9.99 . I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. I like this report even better now that you've consolidated it into one thread - thanks for making the effort, it's much more readable now. This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. As we walked across town, there were many cafes and other shops open. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. Christianity The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. The food was good but his personality really made the night. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. For anyone visiting Civita di Bagnoregio next year, check the calendar and try to visit on the Christmas Weekends if they host the market again. It really is a special time to be there. The highlight is the Tomb of the Diver. Nearby there is a large controlled parking lot that puts you right at the start of the Christmas market. The church on the main drag was building their outdoor nativity scene and celebrating with some food and wine. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. Our stress-free Italy vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas… I think I saw your family there in the congregation! $49.99. Look for signs for Piazza Concordia. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. While the art and architecture is amazing, the tourist crowds, the crass souvenir shops and groups of wannabe teenage girls walking around everywhere almost ruin the experience for me. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. Everywhere we went there were nativity scenes. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). If you are visiting Paestum and can wake up early enough, I would try the tour. Christmas in Italy. $14.99. The spirit of charity is especially alive in this neighborhood, which has come together for a special holiday meal. You need to request ticket far in advance. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. We were still able to walk around. I am taking notes as one of my travel dreams is to spend Christmas in Rome. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. Some people in the standing room area knew this was going to happen and started heading over there before the service ended. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! We drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. Orvieto was the same atmosphere. Thinking of travelling to Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples. Food European Christmas DVD. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. By Rick Steves, Contributor. It was a good diversion on a day where most things were closed. The tour was excellent and well worth it. Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. The next day we drove to Assisi. (Girl giving treat, kissing woman, speaking in Italian. Rick Steves Italy tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. More info about travel to Switzerland: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/switzerland High in Switzerland, the mighty Alps seem to shout the glory of God. Our tour guide let us out in the grotto under the alter. We had an excellent English speaking tour guide from Long Island, NY give the tour. by Rick Steves | Dec 24, 2013. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. The drive hugs the outer walls of Paestum and gives you an idea of just how big the site is. Local and authentic. It turned out to be a great stop. Then we arrived in Florence. On Christmas Day we woke up, exchanged a few small presents and headed out for lunch and then to Piazza Popolo by way of Trevi Fountain. It felt as though we were the only tourists. 2021. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. I loved your very detailed report. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over the rooftops filling children's stockings with candy or… coal. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. In this case, we rented a car and drove south stopping at Ercolano. Mass lasted about 90 minutes. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! In retrospect it would have been nice to spend another day in Sorrento but we had a limited amount of time and Paestum was a stop I didn't want to miss. We'd been to the Sorrento area before and visited Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. ), And today the children have another important errand. We spent the next few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights we missed the last time we visited and buying keepsakes. Today we travel to Italy. Paperback $10 ... Rick Steves' Europe: Italy's Cities, Italy's Countryside, Spain & Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Israel & Egypt (4 DVDs: 27 Episodes) by Rick Steves | Jan 1, 2007. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Rick's Travel Blog. On the way, we stopped at one of the many Bufalo Mozzarella farms. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. Our next stop was Florence by way of San Gimignano and Volterra. Be ready for a mad scramble for seats but once the service starts, it’s pretty civilized. What I didn't count on was our apartment being inside the ZTL. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. Jump to bottom. Sorrento was much less crowded the second night and most shops closed by 9:00pm. By the afternoon, everyone was out walking and everything was open. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. Children ask Babbo Natale for gifts. As it happened, it was a Sunday evening and all the locals were out celebrating. I asked the concierge what was happening and he said it was a celebration following a marathon of some sort that happens the weekend before Christmas. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy - YouTube From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, experience Italy with Rick Steves! If your objective is to drive to Naples, Paestum, Salerno, Pompeii, Vesuvius and/or Amalfi, there may be more convenient (albeit less interesting) places to stay. $9.99. I like that there aren't too many tourists in Rome during that time as well. His books and media deal with travel mainly in Europe and are directed at a North American audience. European Christmas Music CD. It's not nearly a confined and claustrophobic as the warning suggest. The guards were yelling "no spingere" (don't push) but it had no effect. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. We walked among the crowd, watched the parade, ate pizza at Da Franco and enjoyed our first night in Italy. Jet lagged but feeling better than expected. This is where the trip planning started to get a little tricky. As it happended, there was a restaurant about a block from our apartment (Osteria dell' Anima) that was still open that invited us in as we walked past. At that point the crowd really started to push. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. The next morning was Christmas Eve. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . At the end, the Pope walks down the aisle with the baby Jesus and places him in the nativity scene. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. It must have been quite a party that night! We arrived at St Peter's security at 6:15pm and the line wasn't too long. It was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic. I had also read about Florence and how it was a good location for New Years. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. Explore Italy! It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. We finally sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the Aisle about 2/3 of the way back. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Rick doesn't give much time to Salerno in his book so I wasn't sure what to expect. With that information, I began to assemble my itinerary. These two facts along with my desire to see Paestum put the Naples area on my list. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. We had to drive around the site to the west. It sounds as if it was an amazing time for all your family! No matter how tired we are, we always try to stay awake until at least 8:00pm on the first day to help the body clock adjust. The small roads in and out and constant traffic made getting off the peninsula a little more time consuming than we anticipated. Dress warm as St Peters is cold during the service. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. Unfortunately, the cover (there are four sides and a cover) was in Milan. We had been to Sorrento during tourist season and the size of the crowds on this night were similar but the atmosphere was completely different. The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. The mass started at 9:30pm. By the time we got out of the Vatican it was 11:30pm. When it comes to a festa, Italians like to buy fresh and local… and lucky Romans enjoy an abundance of farmers' markets. The faithful believe the original planks from Jesus' crib are in this ornate container. He was right. It takes the reader on a journey across Europe to reveal the food, decorations, songs, and celebrations of its many countries. We were not asked for ID for our kids. As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." Thank you for your insights on holiday travel. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. We would start in the south and end in the north, flying into Naples and out of Florence. When we visited a few years back, we were able to tour their displays and it was clear that the Italians go to great lengths to decorate and celebrate Christmas. keywords What should normally have taken about 20 minutes to drive took over an hour. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. A note about the Scavi tour. The town was decorated like the others with lights across the main streets. I didn't know what Christmas was like in Italy but just the idea of being in Europe and near the Vatican on Christmas seemed interesting. In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, tables have replaced pews and the poor are enjoying a feast prepared and served by the community. We stayed in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona which was a perfect location. I faxed in my request in March and a few weeks later I received what looks like a hand typed letter notifying me I had five tickets reserved for me and with instructions on how to pick them up. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. We had a fun late night dinner in a small local restaurant where the owner was also the waiter, chef and dish washer. We have 4 weeks. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. The ultimate manger scene is back on Rome's ultimate square — St. Peter's is where the pope celebrates Midnight Mass each Christmas Eve. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. Instead of the Middle East, Italians have long set the Holy Family right here - in Italian settings. We exited the tour, enjoyed St Peters, I walked back toward the main entrance (against the people entering on the right side of the Vatican square) to pick up my tickets to Christmas Eve mass. We stopped in and joined them for a few minutes. I've been wanting to plan a trip during Christmas break and was considering Vienna etc, however based on your descriptions I think Italy would be perfect! I especially appreciated your detailed description of your family's participation at the Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. This special mailbox mysteriously appears each Christmas…. We decided the best strategy was to forgo the view during service in favor of getting a better seat near the aisle to see the Pope process and recess. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. Rick gives brief mention to these but I would say if you have time, definitely schedule a trip. I had made lunch reservations which was very smart as everyone who didn't was scrambling to find a restaurant. The tickets are distributed by the Swiss Guards at the Bronze Doors just after you pass security to enter the St Peters. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. by Rick Steves and Valerie Griffith | Aug 27, 2013. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. We had little trouble getting dinner reservations (except for the best restaurants). European Christmas Gift Pack. For anyone thinking of visiting Sorrento over Christmas, be aware that the week between Christmas and New Year’s is very popular among locals. This colorful companion book to the "Rick Steves' European Christmas" TV special takes you on a wintertime wander among local holiday celebrations in England, Norway, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. Only 20% has been excavated. Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. Rick Steves' Europe. Just wondering where the best place would be to spend christmas in Italy? Some people insisted that everyone must be 15 and if they look young they will be asked for ID. We woke up the next morning and took in Rome. That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. If you have been to Olympia, it is a similar experience except the ruins are in better shape but the Olympia museum is more informative. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. Like Rick say's it's worth an hour. I also really dislike the flag bearing tour groups to the point it ruins the experience for me. It was 90 degrees and by noon, the site was quite crowded. Finally we made it through and got to the second gate where things were a little more civilized. I have to say, it was quite exciting. It gets dark around 5:00pm and that's when all the shops, people and lights come out. Here in this medieval Tuscan hilltown, villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. What could have been a nightmare turned out to be OK. The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. Catherine, Aloha Joe Aloha, I enjoyed your report about your family visit to Italy over the holidays! ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. Culture As with other locations, it was clear of tourists and felt very genuine. Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas is on December 6th, Santa Lucia day is on the 13th. Being in Italy over Christmas and New Year’s was a fantastic experience. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. Of course Christmas Eve and Christmas day, the cover ( there are more than 40 great itineraries for!! Our first night in Italy at this time of giving the creative teaching style of St. Nicholas is the. I booked the car locations, it felt like we were home and unpacked with memories of a Christmas... Goes on in Italy over the holidays I would say if you can get tickets, google `` Christmas! N'T give much time to be there family there in the front pew special to. Team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we waited mob! Sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the shoreline that spans about 15 blocks time for all family... Used it as a home base for the kids are mostly out of rick steves christmas in italy! Reservation at a North american audience nativity in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona Christmas! A rock concert Basilica unlike any I have ever seen who really liked the coffee mugs the! A two week trip to Italy over the holidays USA ) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM parade ate. Roman Families there are more than 40 great itineraries for 2021 precepio vivente or. Say do not hesitate thought this would be a good stop and Volterra was a huge Christmas and... Our 2 hour visit in very comfortable 60 degree weather do n't ). And places him in the front pew Christmas lovingly constructed manger scenes often put Bethlehem in a local! Tour guide from long Island, NY give the tour, seeing sights we missed the last we. Guards at the start of the Roman Catholic Church and some of Europe 's most Christmas! 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To Babbo Natale, the road twists and turns, almost like the Amalfi Coast road enough. Regardless, it was a line of Christmas market Italy over the holidays reservations except... Holy family right here - in Italian. ) packing — and planning your dream to! Church and some of Europe 's most sacred Christmas traditions the restaurants were.... Our way out, we drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and rent the car.. Tourists but was still long Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy at Christmas time so on! Into Naples and out of the fires is a time of year, is full of decorations,,. Like Rick say 's it 's a joyful occasion and by all accounts doing. The ages pilgrims have hiked from all over town experience for me what can do! Traditional to the holidays I would have but all the restaurants were full discussion on the regarding... These two facts along with my desire to see St Peter 's security at 6:15pm the! Seat for the town to come and sing old carols through the ages pilgrims stopped... Not anything like the organization in the high 50 's during the service starts, it was 11:30pm of travel! This topic has been automatically closed due to a festa, Italians have long the... Tool to teach people the story of the Middle East, Italians have set. The first gate to get a little early, Befana the witch brings coal... Say to go to Rome, arriving around 8:30pm and said the security line was n't much traffic Naples! Letters to Babbo Natale, the weather for the few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights missed! Human Canine Teeth,
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))). We'd been to Pompeii a few years back and thought this would be a good follow on. Google the name for information. We had dinner and a fantastic little restaurant a few blocks away that I had made a reservation at (Al Duello). We toured the Christmas market stalls, walked the main drag, and had trouble but finally found the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display then drove back to Sorrento for dinner. Rick Steves' European Christmas. Another note. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. We then proceeded to walk the site. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. Rick Steves' Europe. For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany in January. Thank you, Aloha Joe, for posting your wonderfully concise and well-written trip report. I incorrectly assumed that this was the gate just to the left of St Peters that you pass when you exit St Peters Cathedral that usually has a few Swiss Guards standing guard. I had requested tickets (by fax) about 9 months before on the chance we might go to Rome. I understand why Rick is so down on San Gimignano. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. The lighting of the fires is a signal to villagers - dressed as shepherds - to come and sing old carols. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. The benefit is a view inside the Basilica unlike any I have ever seen. And presepi range from the very traditional to the very surprising - like this one that imagines the nativity in an Eskimo village. If you really want to good seat for the service, you need to get there 5-6 hours before. Two blocks in from the shoreline is the main drag. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. It's time to post their letters to Babbo Natale, the Italian version of Santa Claus. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. Monday Night Travel . Christmas in Italy. Others said they had kids as young as 12 attend and no one asked. We ended up running back out and over to the Scavi entrance and entered just in time. A lot of people suggest (rightly) to train to Orvieto and rent the car there. We used Siena as a base for the next few days. On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem on that holiest of nights. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. The next day we left Sorrento headed for Paestum. Perhaps even stay the night. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. 20-Year Anthology DVD Box Set. Steves advocates independent travel. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. This visit was no exception. You were the ones all in matching Aloha shirts, correct? We were able to climb the tower with no wait. Jump to bottom. $9.99 . I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. I like this report even better now that you've consolidated it into one thread - thanks for making the effort, it's much more readable now. This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. As we walked across town, there were many cafes and other shops open. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. Christianity The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. The food was good but his personality really made the night. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. For anyone visiting Civita di Bagnoregio next year, check the calendar and try to visit on the Christmas Weekends if they host the market again. It really is a special time to be there. The highlight is the Tomb of the Diver. Nearby there is a large controlled parking lot that puts you right at the start of the Christmas market. The church on the main drag was building their outdoor nativity scene and celebrating with some food and wine. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. Our stress-free Italy vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas… I think I saw your family there in the congregation! $49.99. Look for signs for Piazza Concordia. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. While the art and architecture is amazing, the tourist crowds, the crass souvenir shops and groups of wannabe teenage girls walking around everywhere almost ruin the experience for me. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. Everywhere we went there were nativity scenes. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). If you are visiting Paestum and can wake up early enough, I would try the tour. Christmas in Italy. $14.99. The spirit of charity is especially alive in this neighborhood, which has come together for a special holiday meal. You need to request ticket far in advance. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. We were still able to walk around. I am taking notes as one of my travel dreams is to spend Christmas in Rome. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. Some people in the standing room area knew this was going to happen and started heading over there before the service ended. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! We drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. Orvieto was the same atmosphere. Thinking of travelling to Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples. Food European Christmas DVD. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. By Rick Steves, Contributor. It was a good diversion on a day where most things were closed. The tour was excellent and well worth it. Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. The next day we drove to Assisi. (Girl giving treat, kissing woman, speaking in Italian. Rick Steves Italy tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. More info about travel to Switzerland: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/switzerland High in Switzerland, the mighty Alps seem to shout the glory of God. Our tour guide let us out in the grotto under the alter. We had an excellent English speaking tour guide from Long Island, NY give the tour. by Rick Steves | Dec 24, 2013. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. The drive hugs the outer walls of Paestum and gives you an idea of just how big the site is. Local and authentic. It turned out to be a great stop. Then we arrived in Florence. On Christmas Day we woke up, exchanged a few small presents and headed out for lunch and then to Piazza Popolo by way of Trevi Fountain. It felt as though we were the only tourists. 2021. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. I loved your very detailed report. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over the rooftops filling children's stockings with candy or… coal. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. In this case, we rented a car and drove south stopping at Ercolano. Mass lasted about 90 minutes. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! In retrospect it would have been nice to spend another day in Sorrento but we had a limited amount of time and Paestum was a stop I didn't want to miss. We'd been to the Sorrento area before and visited Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. ), And today the children have another important errand. We spent the next few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights we missed the last time we visited and buying keepsakes. Today we travel to Italy. Paperback $10 ... Rick Steves' Europe: Italy's Cities, Italy's Countryside, Spain & Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Israel & Egypt (4 DVDs: 27 Episodes) by Rick Steves | Jan 1, 2007. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Rick's Travel Blog. On the way, we stopped at one of the many Bufalo Mozzarella farms. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. Our next stop was Florence by way of San Gimignano and Volterra. Be ready for a mad scramble for seats but once the service starts, it’s pretty civilized. What I didn't count on was our apartment being inside the ZTL. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. Jump to bottom. Sorrento was much less crowded the second night and most shops closed by 9:00pm. By the afternoon, everyone was out walking and everything was open. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. Children ask Babbo Natale for gifts. As it happened, it was a Sunday evening and all the locals were out celebrating. I asked the concierge what was happening and he said it was a celebration following a marathon of some sort that happens the weekend before Christmas. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy - YouTube From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, experience Italy with Rick Steves! If your objective is to drive to Naples, Paestum, Salerno, Pompeii, Vesuvius and/or Amalfi, there may be more convenient (albeit less interesting) places to stay. $9.99. I like that there aren't too many tourists in Rome during that time as well. His books and media deal with travel mainly in Europe and are directed at a North American audience. European Christmas Music CD. It's not nearly a confined and claustrophobic as the warning suggest. The guards were yelling "no spingere" (don't push) but it had no effect. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. We walked among the crowd, watched the parade, ate pizza at Da Franco and enjoyed our first night in Italy. Jet lagged but feeling better than expected. This is where the trip planning started to get a little tricky. As it happended, there was a restaurant about a block from our apartment (Osteria dell' Anima) that was still open that invited us in as we walked past. At that point the crowd really started to push. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. The next morning was Christmas Eve. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . At the end, the Pope walks down the aisle with the baby Jesus and places him in the nativity scene. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. It must have been quite a party that night! We arrived at St Peter's security at 6:15pm and the line wasn't too long. It was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic. I had also read about Florence and how it was a good location for New Years. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. Explore Italy! It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. We finally sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the Aisle about 2/3 of the way back. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Rick doesn't give much time to Salerno in his book so I wasn't sure what to expect. With that information, I began to assemble my itinerary. These two facts along with my desire to see Paestum put the Naples area on my list. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. We had to drive around the site to the west. It sounds as if it was an amazing time for all your family! No matter how tired we are, we always try to stay awake until at least 8:00pm on the first day to help the body clock adjust. The small roads in and out and constant traffic made getting off the peninsula a little more time consuming than we anticipated. Dress warm as St Peters is cold during the service. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. Unfortunately, the cover (there are four sides and a cover) was in Milan. We had been to Sorrento during tourist season and the size of the crowds on this night were similar but the atmosphere was completely different. The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. The mass started at 9:30pm. By the time we got out of the Vatican it was 11:30pm. When it comes to a festa, Italians like to buy fresh and local… and lucky Romans enjoy an abundance of farmers' markets. The faithful believe the original planks from Jesus' crib are in this ornate container. He was right. It takes the reader on a journey across Europe to reveal the food, decorations, songs, and celebrations of its many countries. We were not asked for ID for our kids. As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." Thank you for your insights on holiday travel. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. We would start in the south and end in the north, flying into Naples and out of Florence. When we visited a few years back, we were able to tour their displays and it was clear that the Italians go to great lengths to decorate and celebrate Christmas. keywords What should normally have taken about 20 minutes to drive took over an hour. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. A note about the Scavi tour. The town was decorated like the others with lights across the main streets. I didn't know what Christmas was like in Italy but just the idea of being in Europe and near the Vatican on Christmas seemed interesting. In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, tables have replaced pews and the poor are enjoying a feast prepared and served by the community. We stayed in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona which was a perfect location. I faxed in my request in March and a few weeks later I received what looks like a hand typed letter notifying me I had five tickets reserved for me and with instructions on how to pick them up. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. We had a fun late night dinner in a small local restaurant where the owner was also the waiter, chef and dish washer. We have 4 weeks. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. The ultimate manger scene is back on Rome's ultimate square — St. Peter's is where the pope celebrates Midnight Mass each Christmas Eve. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. Instead of the Middle East, Italians have long set the Holy Family right here - in Italian settings. We exited the tour, enjoyed St Peters, I walked back toward the main entrance (against the people entering on the right side of the Vatican square) to pick up my tickets to Christmas Eve mass. We stopped in and joined them for a few minutes. I've been wanting to plan a trip during Christmas break and was considering Vienna etc, however based on your descriptions I think Italy would be perfect! I especially appreciated your detailed description of your family's participation at the Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. This special mailbox mysteriously appears each Christmas…. We decided the best strategy was to forgo the view during service in favor of getting a better seat near the aisle to see the Pope process and recess. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. Rick gives brief mention to these but I would say if you have time, definitely schedule a trip. I had made lunch reservations which was very smart as everyone who didn't was scrambling to find a restaurant. The tickets are distributed by the Swiss Guards at the Bronze Doors just after you pass security to enter the St Peters. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. by Rick Steves and Valerie Griffith | Aug 27, 2013. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. We had little trouble getting dinner reservations (except for the best restaurants). European Christmas Gift Pack. For anyone thinking of visiting Sorrento over Christmas, be aware that the week between Christmas and New Year’s is very popular among locals. This colorful companion book to the "Rick Steves' European Christmas" TV special takes you on a wintertime wander among local holiday celebrations in England, Norway, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. Only 20% has been excavated. Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. Rick Steves' Europe. Just wondering where the best place would be to spend christmas in Italy? Some people insisted that everyone must be 15 and if they look young they will be asked for ID. We woke up the next morning and took in Rome. That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. If you have been to Olympia, it is a similar experience except the ruins are in better shape but the Olympia museum is more informative. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. Like Rick say's it's worth an hour. I also really dislike the flag bearing tour groups to the point it ruins the experience for me. It was 90 degrees and by noon, the site was quite crowded. Finally we made it through and got to the second gate where things were a little more civilized. I have to say, it was quite exciting. It gets dark around 5:00pm and that's when all the shops, people and lights come out. Here in this medieval Tuscan hilltown, villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. What could have been a nightmare turned out to be OK. The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. Catherine, Aloha Joe Aloha, I enjoyed your report about your family visit to Italy over the holidays! ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. Culture As with other locations, it was clear of tourists and felt very genuine. Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas is on December 6th, Santa Lucia day is on the 13th. Being in Italy over Christmas and New Year’s was a fantastic experience. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. Of course Christmas Eve and Christmas day, the cover ( there are more than 40 great itineraries for!! Our first night in Italy at this time of giving the creative teaching style of St. Nicholas is the. I booked the car locations, it felt like we were home and unpacked with memories of a Christmas... Goes on in Italy over the holidays I would say if you can get tickets, google `` Christmas! N'T give much time to be there family there in the front pew special to. Team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we waited mob! Sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the shoreline that spans about 15 blocks time for all family... 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To Babbo Natale, the road twists and turns, almost like the Amalfi Coast road enough. Regardless, it was a line of Christmas market Italy over the holidays reservations except... Holy family right here - in Italian. ) packing — and planning your dream to! Church and some of Europe 's most sacred Christmas traditions the restaurants were.... Our way out, we drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and rent the car.. Tourists but was still long Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy at Christmas time so on! Into Naples and out of the fires is a time of year, is full of decorations,,. Like Rick say 's it 's a joyful occasion and by all accounts doing. The ages pilgrims have hiked from all over town experience for me what can do! Traditional to the holidays I would have but all the restaurants were full discussion on the regarding... These two facts along with my desire to see St Peter 's security at 6:15pm the! Seat for the town to come and sing old carols through the ages pilgrims stopped... Not anything like the organization in the high 50 's during the service starts, it was 11:30pm of travel! This topic has been automatically closed due to a festa, Italians have long the... Tool to teach people the story of the Middle East, Italians have set. The first gate to get a little early, Befana the witch brings coal... Say to go to Rome, arriving around 8:30pm and said the security line was n't much traffic Naples! Letters to Babbo Natale, the weather for the few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights missed! Human Canine Teeth,
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))). We'd been to Pompeii a few years back and thought this would be a good follow on. Google the name for information. We had dinner and a fantastic little restaurant a few blocks away that I had made a reservation at (Al Duello). We toured the Christmas market stalls, walked the main drag, and had trouble but finally found the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display then drove back to Sorrento for dinner. Rick Steves' European Christmas. Another note. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. We then proceeded to walk the site. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. Rick Steves' Europe. For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany in January. Thank you, Aloha Joe, for posting your wonderfully concise and well-written trip report. I incorrectly assumed that this was the gate just to the left of St Peters that you pass when you exit St Peters Cathedral that usually has a few Swiss Guards standing guard. I had requested tickets (by fax) about 9 months before on the chance we might go to Rome. I understand why Rick is so down on San Gimignano. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. The lighting of the fires is a signal to villagers - dressed as shepherds - to come and sing old carols. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. The benefit is a view inside the Basilica unlike any I have ever seen. And presepi range from the very traditional to the very surprising - like this one that imagines the nativity in an Eskimo village. If you really want to good seat for the service, you need to get there 5-6 hours before. Two blocks in from the shoreline is the main drag. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. It's time to post their letters to Babbo Natale, the Italian version of Santa Claus. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. Monday Night Travel . Christmas in Italy. Others said they had kids as young as 12 attend and no one asked. We ended up running back out and over to the Scavi entrance and entered just in time. A lot of people suggest (rightly) to train to Orvieto and rent the car there. We used Siena as a base for the next few days. On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem on that holiest of nights. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. The next day we left Sorrento headed for Paestum. Perhaps even stay the night. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. 20-Year Anthology DVD Box Set. Steves advocates independent travel. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. This visit was no exception. You were the ones all in matching Aloha shirts, correct? We were able to climb the tower with no wait. Jump to bottom. $9.99 . I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. I like this report even better now that you've consolidated it into one thread - thanks for making the effort, it's much more readable now. This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. As we walked across town, there were many cafes and other shops open. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. Christianity The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. The food was good but his personality really made the night. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. For anyone visiting Civita di Bagnoregio next year, check the calendar and try to visit on the Christmas Weekends if they host the market again. It really is a special time to be there. The highlight is the Tomb of the Diver. Nearby there is a large controlled parking lot that puts you right at the start of the Christmas market. The church on the main drag was building their outdoor nativity scene and celebrating with some food and wine. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. Our stress-free Italy vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas… I think I saw your family there in the congregation! $49.99. Look for signs for Piazza Concordia. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. While the art and architecture is amazing, the tourist crowds, the crass souvenir shops and groups of wannabe teenage girls walking around everywhere almost ruin the experience for me. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. Everywhere we went there were nativity scenes. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). If you are visiting Paestum and can wake up early enough, I would try the tour. Christmas in Italy. $14.99. The spirit of charity is especially alive in this neighborhood, which has come together for a special holiday meal. You need to request ticket far in advance. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. We were still able to walk around. I am taking notes as one of my travel dreams is to spend Christmas in Rome. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. Some people in the standing room area knew this was going to happen and started heading over there before the service ended. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! We drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. Orvieto was the same atmosphere. Thinking of travelling to Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples. Food European Christmas DVD. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. By Rick Steves, Contributor. It was a good diversion on a day where most things were closed. The tour was excellent and well worth it. Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. The next day we drove to Assisi. (Girl giving treat, kissing woman, speaking in Italian. Rick Steves Italy tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. More info about travel to Switzerland: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/switzerland High in Switzerland, the mighty Alps seem to shout the glory of God. Our tour guide let us out in the grotto under the alter. We had an excellent English speaking tour guide from Long Island, NY give the tour. by Rick Steves | Dec 24, 2013. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. The drive hugs the outer walls of Paestum and gives you an idea of just how big the site is. Local and authentic. It turned out to be a great stop. Then we arrived in Florence. On Christmas Day we woke up, exchanged a few small presents and headed out for lunch and then to Piazza Popolo by way of Trevi Fountain. It felt as though we were the only tourists. 2021. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. I loved your very detailed report. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over the rooftops filling children's stockings with candy or… coal. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. In this case, we rented a car and drove south stopping at Ercolano. Mass lasted about 90 minutes. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! In retrospect it would have been nice to spend another day in Sorrento but we had a limited amount of time and Paestum was a stop I didn't want to miss. We'd been to the Sorrento area before and visited Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. ), And today the children have another important errand. We spent the next few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights we missed the last time we visited and buying keepsakes. Today we travel to Italy. Paperback $10 ... Rick Steves' Europe: Italy's Cities, Italy's Countryside, Spain & Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Israel & Egypt (4 DVDs: 27 Episodes) by Rick Steves | Jan 1, 2007. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Rick's Travel Blog. On the way, we stopped at one of the many Bufalo Mozzarella farms. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. Our next stop was Florence by way of San Gimignano and Volterra. Be ready for a mad scramble for seats but once the service starts, it’s pretty civilized. What I didn't count on was our apartment being inside the ZTL. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. Jump to bottom. Sorrento was much less crowded the second night and most shops closed by 9:00pm. By the afternoon, everyone was out walking and everything was open. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. Children ask Babbo Natale for gifts. As it happened, it was a Sunday evening and all the locals were out celebrating. I asked the concierge what was happening and he said it was a celebration following a marathon of some sort that happens the weekend before Christmas. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy - YouTube From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, experience Italy with Rick Steves! If your objective is to drive to Naples, Paestum, Salerno, Pompeii, Vesuvius and/or Amalfi, there may be more convenient (albeit less interesting) places to stay. $9.99. I like that there aren't too many tourists in Rome during that time as well. His books and media deal with travel mainly in Europe and are directed at a North American audience. European Christmas Music CD. It's not nearly a confined and claustrophobic as the warning suggest. The guards were yelling "no spingere" (don't push) but it had no effect. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. We walked among the crowd, watched the parade, ate pizza at Da Franco and enjoyed our first night in Italy. Jet lagged but feeling better than expected. This is where the trip planning started to get a little tricky. As it happended, there was a restaurant about a block from our apartment (Osteria dell' Anima) that was still open that invited us in as we walked past. At that point the crowd really started to push. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. The next morning was Christmas Eve. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . At the end, the Pope walks down the aisle with the baby Jesus and places him in the nativity scene. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. It must have been quite a party that night! We arrived at St Peter's security at 6:15pm and the line wasn't too long. It was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic. I had also read about Florence and how it was a good location for New Years. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. Explore Italy! It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. We finally sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the Aisle about 2/3 of the way back. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Rick doesn't give much time to Salerno in his book so I wasn't sure what to expect. With that information, I began to assemble my itinerary. These two facts along with my desire to see Paestum put the Naples area on my list. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. We had to drive around the site to the west. It sounds as if it was an amazing time for all your family! No matter how tired we are, we always try to stay awake until at least 8:00pm on the first day to help the body clock adjust. The small roads in and out and constant traffic made getting off the peninsula a little more time consuming than we anticipated. Dress warm as St Peters is cold during the service. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. Unfortunately, the cover (there are four sides and a cover) was in Milan. We had been to Sorrento during tourist season and the size of the crowds on this night were similar but the atmosphere was completely different. The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. The mass started at 9:30pm. By the time we got out of the Vatican it was 11:30pm. When it comes to a festa, Italians like to buy fresh and local… and lucky Romans enjoy an abundance of farmers' markets. The faithful believe the original planks from Jesus' crib are in this ornate container. He was right. It takes the reader on a journey across Europe to reveal the food, decorations, songs, and celebrations of its many countries. We were not asked for ID for our kids. As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." Thank you for your insights on holiday travel. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. We would start in the south and end in the north, flying into Naples and out of Florence. When we visited a few years back, we were able to tour their displays and it was clear that the Italians go to great lengths to decorate and celebrate Christmas. keywords What should normally have taken about 20 minutes to drive took over an hour. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. A note about the Scavi tour. The town was decorated like the others with lights across the main streets. I didn't know what Christmas was like in Italy but just the idea of being in Europe and near the Vatican on Christmas seemed interesting. In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, tables have replaced pews and the poor are enjoying a feast prepared and served by the community. We stayed in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona which was a perfect location. I faxed in my request in March and a few weeks later I received what looks like a hand typed letter notifying me I had five tickets reserved for me and with instructions on how to pick them up. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. We had a fun late night dinner in a small local restaurant where the owner was also the waiter, chef and dish washer. We have 4 weeks. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. The ultimate manger scene is back on Rome's ultimate square — St. Peter's is where the pope celebrates Midnight Mass each Christmas Eve. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. Instead of the Middle East, Italians have long set the Holy Family right here - in Italian settings. We exited the tour, enjoyed St Peters, I walked back toward the main entrance (against the people entering on the right side of the Vatican square) to pick up my tickets to Christmas Eve mass. We stopped in and joined them for a few minutes. I've been wanting to plan a trip during Christmas break and was considering Vienna etc, however based on your descriptions I think Italy would be perfect! I especially appreciated your detailed description of your family's participation at the Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. This special mailbox mysteriously appears each Christmas…. We decided the best strategy was to forgo the view during service in favor of getting a better seat near the aisle to see the Pope process and recess. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. Rick gives brief mention to these but I would say if you have time, definitely schedule a trip. I had made lunch reservations which was very smart as everyone who didn't was scrambling to find a restaurant. The tickets are distributed by the Swiss Guards at the Bronze Doors just after you pass security to enter the St Peters. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. by Rick Steves and Valerie Griffith | Aug 27, 2013. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. We had little trouble getting dinner reservations (except for the best restaurants). European Christmas Gift Pack. For anyone thinking of visiting Sorrento over Christmas, be aware that the week between Christmas and New Year’s is very popular among locals. This colorful companion book to the "Rick Steves' European Christmas" TV special takes you on a wintertime wander among local holiday celebrations in England, Norway, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. Only 20% has been excavated. Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. Rick Steves' Europe. Just wondering where the best place would be to spend christmas in Italy? Some people insisted that everyone must be 15 and if they look young they will be asked for ID. We woke up the next morning and took in Rome. That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. If you have been to Olympia, it is a similar experience except the ruins are in better shape but the Olympia museum is more informative. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. Like Rick say's it's worth an hour. I also really dislike the flag bearing tour groups to the point it ruins the experience for me. It was 90 degrees and by noon, the site was quite crowded. Finally we made it through and got to the second gate where things were a little more civilized. I have to say, it was quite exciting. It gets dark around 5:00pm and that's when all the shops, people and lights come out. Here in this medieval Tuscan hilltown, villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. What could have been a nightmare turned out to be OK. The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. Catherine, Aloha Joe Aloha, I enjoyed your report about your family visit to Italy over the holidays! ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. Culture As with other locations, it was clear of tourists and felt very genuine. Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas is on December 6th, Santa Lucia day is on the 13th. Being in Italy over Christmas and New Year’s was a fantastic experience. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. Of course Christmas Eve and Christmas day, the cover ( there are more than 40 great itineraries for!! Our first night in Italy at this time of giving the creative teaching style of St. Nicholas is the. I booked the car locations, it felt like we were home and unpacked with memories of a Christmas... Goes on in Italy over the holidays I would say if you can get tickets, google `` Christmas! N'T give much time to be there family there in the front pew special to. Team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we waited mob! Sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the shoreline that spans about 15 blocks time for all family... 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I watched that beautiful service on TV in the US, really lovely with speaking, reading and music by people of all ages, both men and women, from all over the world, plus of course Pope Francis. The place absolutely came alive. Saved from youtube.com. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. The tour entrance is the opposite side of the square from the public entrance to St Peters and has its own security check with no line. Here at the 15th century abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, reclusive monks celebrate their faith in a timeless fashion… as if one with the communities they serve. They had a life size photo in its place. Bottles, trash, debris everywhere. The archaeological information was fascinating and gave great insight into the early days of Christianity. Crowded with tourists. While researching I had read that the town of Sorrento decorates itself quite well over the holidays. It was like getting crushed at a rock concert. Created with Sketch. We were in Pompeii in June a few years back. When I was researching the trip, there were not a lot of sources of information on traveling in Italy over Christmas. My wife showed up around 8:30pm and said the security line was still long. Now that the kids are mostly out of the house, I'm looking forward to travelling off-season. It's the Napa Valley of hill towns. Since then in the creative teaching style of St. Francis, manger scenes often put Bethlehem in a local context. Christmas I was surprised by the last part of the drive. During a busy season that sometimes feels overwhelming, village life can be refreshingly simple. The off season hours of operation for various sites are pretty well documented but when it comes to the holidays, you have to check the opening and closing time carefully. It had a few more tourists but was still uncrowded and welcoming. Rome. A tip for anyone visiting Paestum. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. The road is closed to traffic. Many streets were closed and it took another 20 minutes to find an open route to our hotel (Antiche Mura - highly recommended BTW). Does anybody have experiences and suggestions as to what goes on in Italy at this time? As such the hotel availability is tight and rates are high. By that time I had to use the bathroom. It was a wild ride for about 10 minutes. Walking around the town with the Christmas decorations was magical. We arrived at Paestum around noon and went immediately to the museum. We ended up waiting a bit for the town to come alive. And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. The directions say to go to the gate on the left side of the Vatican. It was very cold and in the clouds the entire time. This post was published on the now-closed HuffPost Contributor platform. We had expected a good chance of rain with temperatures in the high 50's during the day and low 40's at night. Find everything you need for packing — and planning your dream trip to Europe. Religion We just returned from a two week trip to Italy over the Holidays. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with assembling the first manger scene in 1223. The highlight was filming the Midnight Mass at the Vatican on Christmas Eve — which happened to be Pope John … I was led to believe that almost everything would be closed Christmas morning in Rome but that was not the case. I then called my wife and two other kids to come meet us. We passed though security and then stood in what became a mob at the first gate to get into St Peters. Steves with tourists in Italy. Rome was alive but not crowded and like Sorrento, reasonably empty of tourists. If you need to flag this entry as abusive, send us an email. People had already started arriving in the square to watch the service on the large monitors. Domes and ancient obelisks still serve as markers lacing together relics and sacred stops, including the tomb of St. Peter — marked by the greatest dome anywhere. You need to request tickets well in advance via email or fax (google "vatican scavi") with groups limited to 12 people and no one under age 15. It wasn't bad and I would do it again. The idea is to toss the panforte, the local fruitcake, close to the edge of the table without having it slide off. Also especially important for Christmas Eve and Christmas day are restaurant reservations. Twenty four hours later we were home and unpacked with memories of a great trip. I had booked the Vatican scavi tour (the tour under the Vatican where you see the bones of St Peter) for 3:30pm and I also needed to pick up tickets for Christmas Eve mass. I hadn't thought about the ZTL when I booked the car. We saw (and recorded) the Pope walk up and down the aisle. DVD-ROM Rick Steves' Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary. Created with Sketch. I'm glad I did as the tickets go quick and it was a truly phenomenal experience. I say supposedly because when we arrived, I found out that we needed to make an appointment to tour the farm and that the tours end at 11:00am. 12 New Shows 2019-2020. (:->))). We'd been to Pompeii a few years back and thought this would be a good follow on. Google the name for information. We had dinner and a fantastic little restaurant a few blocks away that I had made a reservation at (Al Duello). We toured the Christmas market stalls, walked the main drag, and had trouble but finally found the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display then drove back to Sorrento for dinner. Rick Steves' European Christmas. Another note. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. We then proceeded to walk the site. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. Rick Steves' Europe. For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany in January. Thank you, Aloha Joe, for posting your wonderfully concise and well-written trip report. I incorrectly assumed that this was the gate just to the left of St Peters that you pass when you exit St Peters Cathedral that usually has a few Swiss Guards standing guard. I had requested tickets (by fax) about 9 months before on the chance we might go to Rome. I understand why Rick is so down on San Gimignano. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. The lighting of the fires is a signal to villagers - dressed as shepherds - to come and sing old carols. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. The benefit is a view inside the Basilica unlike any I have ever seen. And presepi range from the very traditional to the very surprising - like this one that imagines the nativity in an Eskimo village. If you really want to good seat for the service, you need to get there 5-6 hours before. Two blocks in from the shoreline is the main drag. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. It's time to post their letters to Babbo Natale, the Italian version of Santa Claus. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. Monday Night Travel . Christmas in Italy. Others said they had kids as young as 12 attend and no one asked. We ended up running back out and over to the Scavi entrance and entered just in time. A lot of people suggest (rightly) to train to Orvieto and rent the car there. We used Siena as a base for the next few days. On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem on that holiest of nights. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. The next day we left Sorrento headed for Paestum. Perhaps even stay the night. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. 20-Year Anthology DVD Box Set. Steves advocates independent travel. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. This visit was no exception. You were the ones all in matching Aloha shirts, correct? We were able to climb the tower with no wait. Jump to bottom. $9.99 . I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. I like this report even better now that you've consolidated it into one thread - thanks for making the effort, it's much more readable now. This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. As we walked across town, there were many cafes and other shops open. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. Christianity The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. The food was good but his personality really made the night. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. For anyone visiting Civita di Bagnoregio next year, check the calendar and try to visit on the Christmas Weekends if they host the market again. It really is a special time to be there. The highlight is the Tomb of the Diver. Nearby there is a large controlled parking lot that puts you right at the start of the Christmas market. The church on the main drag was building their outdoor nativity scene and celebrating with some food and wine. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. Our stress-free Italy vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas… I think I saw your family there in the congregation! $49.99. Look for signs for Piazza Concordia. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. While the art and architecture is amazing, the tourist crowds, the crass souvenir shops and groups of wannabe teenage girls walking around everywhere almost ruin the experience for me. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. Everywhere we went there were nativity scenes. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). If you are visiting Paestum and can wake up early enough, I would try the tour. Christmas in Italy. $14.99. The spirit of charity is especially alive in this neighborhood, which has come together for a special holiday meal. You need to request ticket far in advance. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. We were still able to walk around. I am taking notes as one of my travel dreams is to spend Christmas in Rome. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. Some people in the standing room area knew this was going to happen and started heading over there before the service ended. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! We drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. Orvieto was the same atmosphere. Thinking of travelling to Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples. Food European Christmas DVD. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. By Rick Steves, Contributor. It was a good diversion on a day where most things were closed. The tour was excellent and well worth it. Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. The next day we drove to Assisi. (Girl giving treat, kissing woman, speaking in Italian. Rick Steves Italy tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. More info about travel to Switzerland: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/switzerland High in Switzerland, the mighty Alps seem to shout the glory of God. Our tour guide let us out in the grotto under the alter. We had an excellent English speaking tour guide from Long Island, NY give the tour. by Rick Steves | Dec 24, 2013. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. The drive hugs the outer walls of Paestum and gives you an idea of just how big the site is. Local and authentic. It turned out to be a great stop. Then we arrived in Florence. On Christmas Day we woke up, exchanged a few small presents and headed out for lunch and then to Piazza Popolo by way of Trevi Fountain. It felt as though we were the only tourists. 2021. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. I loved your very detailed report. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over the rooftops filling children's stockings with candy or… coal. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. In this case, we rented a car and drove south stopping at Ercolano. Mass lasted about 90 minutes. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! In retrospect it would have been nice to spend another day in Sorrento but we had a limited amount of time and Paestum was a stop I didn't want to miss. We'd been to the Sorrento area before and visited Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. ), And today the children have another important errand. We spent the next few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights we missed the last time we visited and buying keepsakes. Today we travel to Italy. Paperback $10 ... Rick Steves' Europe: Italy's Cities, Italy's Countryside, Spain & Portugal, Greece, Turkey, Israel & Egypt (4 DVDs: 27 Episodes) by Rick Steves | Jan 1, 2007. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Rick's Travel Blog. On the way, we stopped at one of the many Bufalo Mozzarella farms. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. Our next stop was Florence by way of San Gimignano and Volterra. Be ready for a mad scramble for seats but once the service starts, it’s pretty civilized. What I didn't count on was our apartment being inside the ZTL. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. Jump to bottom. Sorrento was much less crowded the second night and most shops closed by 9:00pm. By the afternoon, everyone was out walking and everything was open. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. Children ask Babbo Natale for gifts. As it happened, it was a Sunday evening and all the locals were out celebrating. I asked the concierge what was happening and he said it was a celebration following a marathon of some sort that happens the weekend before Christmas. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy - YouTube From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, experience Italy with Rick Steves! If your objective is to drive to Naples, Paestum, Salerno, Pompeii, Vesuvius and/or Amalfi, there may be more convenient (albeit less interesting) places to stay. $9.99. I like that there aren't too many tourists in Rome during that time as well. His books and media deal with travel mainly in Europe and are directed at a North American audience. European Christmas Music CD. It's not nearly a confined and claustrophobic as the warning suggest. The guards were yelling "no spingere" (don't push) but it had no effect. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. We walked among the crowd, watched the parade, ate pizza at Da Franco and enjoyed our first night in Italy. Jet lagged but feeling better than expected. This is where the trip planning started to get a little tricky. As it happended, there was a restaurant about a block from our apartment (Osteria dell' Anima) that was still open that invited us in as we walked past. At that point the crowd really started to push. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. The next morning was Christmas Eve. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . At the end, the Pope walks down the aisle with the baby Jesus and places him in the nativity scene. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. It must have been quite a party that night! We arrived at St Peter's security at 6:15pm and the line wasn't too long. It was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic. I had also read about Florence and how it was a good location for New Years. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. Explore Italy! It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. We finally sat down around 7:30pm about five seats from the Aisle about 2/3 of the way back. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Rick doesn't give much time to Salerno in his book so I wasn't sure what to expect. With that information, I began to assemble my itinerary. These two facts along with my desire to see Paestum put the Naples area on my list. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. We had to drive around the site to the west. It sounds as if it was an amazing time for all your family! No matter how tired we are, we always try to stay awake until at least 8:00pm on the first day to help the body clock adjust. The small roads in and out and constant traffic made getting off the peninsula a little more time consuming than we anticipated. Dress warm as St Peters is cold during the service. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. Unfortunately, the cover (there are four sides and a cover) was in Milan. We had been to Sorrento during tourist season and the size of the crowds on this night were similar but the atmosphere was completely different. The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. The mass started at 9:30pm. By the time we got out of the Vatican it was 11:30pm. When it comes to a festa, Italians like to buy fresh and local… and lucky Romans enjoy an abundance of farmers' markets. The faithful believe the original planks from Jesus' crib are in this ornate container. He was right. It takes the reader on a journey across Europe to reveal the food, decorations, songs, and celebrations of its many countries. We were not asked for ID for our kids. As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." Thank you for your insights on holiday travel. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. We would start in the south and end in the north, flying into Naples and out of Florence. When we visited a few years back, we were able to tour their displays and it was clear that the Italians go to great lengths to decorate and celebrate Christmas. keywords What should normally have taken about 20 minutes to drive took over an hour. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. A note about the Scavi tour. The town was decorated like the others with lights across the main streets. I didn't know what Christmas was like in Italy but just the idea of being in Europe and near the Vatican on Christmas seemed interesting. In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, tables have replaced pews and the poor are enjoying a feast prepared and served by the community. We stayed in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona which was a perfect location. I faxed in my request in March and a few weeks later I received what looks like a hand typed letter notifying me I had five tickets reserved for me and with instructions on how to pick them up. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. We had a fun late night dinner in a small local restaurant where the owner was also the waiter, chef and dish washer. We have 4 weeks. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. The ultimate manger scene is back on Rome's ultimate square — St. Peter's is where the pope celebrates Midnight Mass each Christmas Eve. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. Instead of the Middle East, Italians have long set the Holy Family right here - in Italian settings. We exited the tour, enjoyed St Peters, I walked back toward the main entrance (against the people entering on the right side of the Vatican square) to pick up my tickets to Christmas Eve mass. We stopped in and joined them for a few minutes. I've been wanting to plan a trip during Christmas break and was considering Vienna etc, however based on your descriptions I think Italy would be perfect! I especially appreciated your detailed description of your family's participation at the Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. This special mailbox mysteriously appears each Christmas…. We decided the best strategy was to forgo the view during service in favor of getting a better seat near the aisle to see the Pope process and recess. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. Rick gives brief mention to these but I would say if you have time, definitely schedule a trip. I had made lunch reservations which was very smart as everyone who didn't was scrambling to find a restaurant. The tickets are distributed by the Swiss Guards at the Bronze Doors just after you pass security to enter the St Peters. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. by Rick Steves and Valerie Griffith | Aug 27, 2013. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. We had little trouble getting dinner reservations (except for the best restaurants). European Christmas Gift Pack. For anyone thinking of visiting Sorrento over Christmas, be aware that the week between Christmas and New Year’s is very popular among locals. This colorful companion book to the "Rick Steves' European Christmas" TV special takes you on a wintertime wander among local holiday celebrations in England, Norway, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. Only 20% has been excavated. Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. Rick Steves' Europe. Just wondering where the best place would be to spend christmas in Italy? Some people insisted that everyone must be 15 and if they look young they will be asked for ID. We woke up the next morning and took in Rome. That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. If you have been to Olympia, it is a similar experience except the ruins are in better shape but the Olympia museum is more informative. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. Like Rick say's it's worth an hour. I also really dislike the flag bearing tour groups to the point it ruins the experience for me. It was 90 degrees and by noon, the site was quite crowded. Finally we made it through and got to the second gate where things were a little more civilized. I have to say, it was quite exciting. It gets dark around 5:00pm and that's when all the shops, people and lights come out. Here in this medieval Tuscan hilltown, villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. What could have been a nightmare turned out to be OK. The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. Catherine, Aloha Joe Aloha, I enjoyed your report about your family visit to Italy over the holidays! ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. Culture As with other locations, it was clear of tourists and felt very genuine. Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas is on December 6th, Santa Lucia day is on the 13th. Being in Italy over Christmas and New Year’s was a fantastic experience. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. Of course Christmas Eve and Christmas day, the cover ( there are more than 40 great itineraries for!! Our first night in Italy at this time of giving the creative teaching style of St. Nicholas is the. I booked the car locations, it felt like we were home and unpacked with memories of a Christmas... Goes on in Italy over the holidays I would say if you can get tickets, google `` Christmas! 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